Greenland
Greenland is the world’s largest island, located between the Arctic Ocean and the North Atlantic Ocean. Most of the island is covered by an ice cap, but the coastal areas, especially in the west and south, are ice-free and offer stunning natural beauty. Greenland is known for its breathtaking nature, including fjords, glaciers, and wildlife. Fishing in such an environment is an unforgettable experience that combines fishing with exploring natural beauty. Greenland remains a relatively unexplored and less-visited destination for fly-fishing, which means you can enjoy peace and quiet and avoid the crowds found at more popular fishing destinations. The combination of wild nature, rare fish, and a tranquil environment makes Greenland an ideal destination for those seeking something special.
Why go fly fishing in Greenland?
The decision to organize a fly-fishing trip to Greenland was driven by my passion for fly-fishing and adventure. It was made even easier by the fact that Greenland seemed like a destination where I could rest and avoid the excessive August heat and crowds at Slovenian rivers. Popular fishing destinations like the Soča River and other attractive locations in Slovenia become overcrowded with summer tourists in the summer months. Therefore, the decision to go to Greenland in August was perfect. It’s also the right time because the Arctic char begins its spawning migration from the sea to the rivers. Therefore, the crystal-clear, icy-cold rivers are full of silver Arctic char that are looking for partners to continue the reproductive cycle. The Arctic char (Salvelinus alpinus) is a beautiful fish known for its vibrant colors, ranging from silver to orange. Young char typically have a silvery-gray color, while adult fish often develop bright orange or reddish colors on the lower part of their body, especially during the spawning period.
The Journey to Greenland
Our adventure began in Copenhagen, the capital of Denmark, from where we flew to Kangerlussuaq, Greenland. Kangerlussuaq Airport was built during the American occupation in 1941 and was known as Bluie West-8, later Sondrestrom Air Base. It is one of the three civil airports in Greenland large enough to accommodate large aircraft. It is located at the end of the 190 km long Kangerlussuaq fjord and is important for tourism and the local economy. Upon landing, we hoped to quickly continue our journey to the west coast of Greenland, to the coastal town of Sisimiut. However, an unexpected mishap occurred—two of the team members’ bags were left at the airport in Copenhagen. We initially thought that one of the lost bags was on the cargo cart on the airport platform, but this belief turned out to be wrong. Two team members were left without their bags and thus without essential outdoor survival gear. Despite this, the loss of bags did not bother us too much, as we agreed to travel as a group and share and arrange things so that everyone would be satisfied. We were also reassured by a very helpful and friendly airline employee who immediately contacted her colleagues at Copenhagen Airport. They informed her that both bags remained in Denmark and would be delivered to our hotel in Sisimiut on the first flight. After quick intervention and resolving the situation, we boarded an internal flight to Sisimiut, where we would spend the night and according to our plan, set sail to our final fly-fishing destination the next day. Upon arrival, we all gathered in a small room, waiting for our remaining luggage, and experienced another setback on the same day. In addition to the already known fact that two bags stayed in Denmark, a third bag was missing from the baggage carousel. I couldn’t believe it as I waited for the rest of the group in the courtyard in front of the airport building, where they were stuck with retrieving bags and equipment.
Sisimut
Sisimiut is the second-largest town in Greenland and the largest town in the Arctic part of North America. It is located on the west coast of Greenland, approximately 320 km north of the capital, Nuuk. Sisimiut is known for its rich history, having been inhabited for over 4,500 years by the Saqqaq, Dorset, and Thule peoples. Sisimiut is also the starting point for the famous 160 km long Arctic Circle Trail, which leads to Kangerlussuaq. The town offers numerous opportunities for exploring nature and enjoying breathtaking views.
After spending the night at a local family hotel, we pondered the best way to resolve the lost luggage situation. The latest information about the found bags was that they would be delivered to the hotel late in the afternoon. However, we did not know how many bags would be brought or when they would arrive, if at all, by the end of the day. The status of the lost luggage was also crucial for the continuation of our journey. According to our initial plan, we were supposed to continue our journey to our fly-fishing destination by boat immediately after breakfast. Thus, we had to wait until the afternoon, hoping for favorable sea conditions and the delivery of our luggage as promised, allowing us to continue our journey. However, there was no 100% guarantee that this would happen. At the same time, the question arose whether it was wise to continue the trip if the luggage did not arrive.
Fjords of Greenland
We decided to wait for the luggage and, based on that, make further decisions regarding the continuation of the journey. Given how far we had come, we knew that canceling the fly-fishing trip was not an option. Since we did not know which pieces of luggage, if any, would arrive at the hotel, we decided to buy the most necessary missing pieces of equipment for survival in the wilderness, in addition to food. While waiting for the afternoon delivery of luggage, we took the opportunity for a short walk around the town. Although our minds were not entirely at ease, the hours until the afternoon passed quickly, and the luggage arrived in the afternoon. However, only two pieces of luggage arrived. At that moment, it was clear that one piece of luggage would not arrive that day, and we had to decide about continuing the journey. The decision was made unanimously with the promise to share everything necessary within the group and continue with the afternoon departure to our final destination. Tired from waiting for the luggage and excited that our journey was continuing, we boarded a small boat in the afternoon. The sea conditions in the afternoon were not the best, as confirmed by the captain, but we had no other option. Driving through the fjords of Greenland is an unforgettable experience. Fjords are deep bays carved out by glaciers, and they offer spectacular views of steep cliffs, glaciers, and crystal clear waters. After a two-hour drive, we arrived at our river for fly fishing. Due to the afternoon low tide, we were forced to go ashore with a smaller boat, which was an additional challenge with the pile of luggage. Thus, without haste, but very tired, at 11 p.m., with the sun on the horizon, we were able to set up camp for the next four days and prepare for the next day, when our fly fishing in the crystal clear waters of Greenland would begin.
In the middle of nowhere in the wilderness of Greenland
Greenland is truly a raw and unforgiving country, where nature manifests itself in all its might. Despite the fact that permafrost, wind, rain and snow at night create almost winter conditions, even in the month of August, the first night passed peacefully. Due to the low temperatures at night, it is mandatory and advisable to have a good quality sleeping bag and enough warm clothes with you.
The first morning in the middle of nowhere was a completely new and wild experience for me and the whole group. We set up a camp with two tents over a cliff that opened up a view of the river that glistened in the morning dawn, and the surrounding wilderness that surrounded us was simply stunning. In such an environment, a person really feels small and connected to nature. The day was ahead of us when we would finally assemble our fly rods and stretch our fly lines.
After a quick breakfast, still a little tired from yesterday’s boat ride and setting up camp in the evening, we quickly headed to the river in anticipation of the first casts and catches. The first walk in the pure wilderness under the glacier was an extraordinary experience. We soon found that walking on permafrost is very tiring, as each step sinks about 20 cm, as if you were walking on foam. However, this did not hinder us, as the group knew what type of trip and level of activity it was and we were all physically well prepared.
Our river, which we had four days of fly fishing all to ourselves, was medium in size, crystal clear with fast overflows and wide pools full of goldfish, immediately impressed me. Perhaps the river itself was a little too small for my taste, but I was positively surprised by the number of fish in it. I myself am not used to seeing so many fish in the river if I compare the situation with Slovenian rivers. The remaining members of the group were visibly impressed by the number of fish seen in the spillways and pools. And fishing for Arctic goldfish could begin.
The end of the adventure
Our fly fishing and exploration slowly came to an end after four days. After another sleepless and last night, we cleared our camp in the morning and waited for the arrival of our boat to take us back to the town of Sisimiut. Upon arrival at the hotel, we all enjoyed a long hot shower and a delicious lunch in the hotel restaurant. The feeling of comfort and relaxation was priceless after everything we experienced in the wilderness.
Ready to go
After the last night at the hotel in Sisimiut, we caught an internal flight to the city of Kangerlussuaq in time after breakfast. Despite the tiredness, we were full of satisfaction and unforgettable memories of our fly fishing and exploration of Greenland. Upon arrival in Kangerlussuaq, we still had some time for a short tour of the city before getting ready for the next day and the flight to Copenhagen, Denmark. After landing in Copenhagen, we all agreed that this trip was exceptional and full of experiences that we will never forget. Greenland has won us over with its wild nature, crystal clear rivers and rich fishing experience.
